When I’m contacted by a new customer about seeing property, there are two questions I always ask:

“Are you currently working with an agent”?

and

“Have you spoken with a mortgage lender”?

If the answer to the first is ‘yes’, I respectfully direct them to contact said agent. I have no desire to interfere with the relationship established between the buyer and one of my peers.

If the answer to the second question is ‘no’, then it’s time for a little educating. And this has been the case for as long as I’ve been a real estate agent. (Yikes. That’s 24 years now. Someone around here’s getting old!)

The thing is, most buyers really want to look at houses. And that’s obviously a key to finding your home. Duh. But, while going into houses and mentally decorating and placing your furniture in house after house can be fun, if you haven’t lined up your financing, you’re doing things bass-ackwards. Really. I promise.

I get resistance from some buyers when I ask them about the loan thing. And when I demur showing them properties until they have spoken with a reputable lender, it seems they think it’s some kind of gimmick or scheme on my part. Like I get paid extra if I show houses to buyers with approval letters in hand.

I don’t get paid extra. And it’s not a scheme. It’s pragmatic. And pragmatic for both the buyer and for me.

Let’s face it, jumping to show houses to a buyer who may be unable to afford them is unfair to the sellers – they shouldn’t vacate their homes for an hour so that eager but unqualified lookers check out the place – and unfair to the buyer who may fall in love with a house that’s out of reach and, not for nothing, is a waste of my time.

Harsh? Maybe. True? On all counts.

The truth is, there’s no downside to getting approved – yes, approved (not just ‘pre-qualified’) for a loan at the beginning of the process. It doesn’t cost more to do so than when you’re ready to make an offer. Approvals are generally good for some time, perhaps with a just a fresh credit check done if enough time has elapsed. Ask your lender about the details of their approvals.

Perhaps more importantly,with North Carolina now being a ‘due diligence’ state in regards to our Offer to Purchase, it’s imperative that buyers have their loan nailed down at the time an offer is made. No more loan shopping if one place turns you down while the seller waits on the sidelines, their house essentially off the market. You can read about the due diligence thing in this post.

It’s understandable that buyers, particularly first time buyers, are squeamish about talking to a lender. It’s akin to stepping on a scale if you’ve been avoiding doing so and the holidays just ended and your daughter is a great baker and your husband is a fantastic cook and it was too cold to get out and exercise and …. ahem… excuse me. That hit a bit close to home.

Back to borrowers. Have no fear. A good lender will tell you where you stand. If that happens to be in a place $20K less than you thought, better to find out now. If it happens to be in a place $30K more than you thought – mazel tov! And if you’re told that this isn’t the time for you to buy, that same good lender can give you a roadmap for how to get where you want to be.

So, I used a lot of words to answer the question posed in the title of this post but it boils down to two words: The loan.

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The thoughts & opinions are mine. The quips that fall flat are someone else’s. Please feel free to shoot me an email with a question or a good joke.

And remember, real estate agents aren’t bad. We’re just drawn that way.

OK, a quickie post here. With thanks to my son-in-law, Patrick Beeson, for passing this link along to me. (I usually hear these reports myself on NPR in the mornings as I start my daily routine, but missed this one)

This is a story that goes under the “it could always be worse” category.

Take a couple of minutes to listen. Go ahead, I’ll wait. Then read my take on this below…

Waiting…..waiting….*whistle*…..waiting….

Alrighty. Welcome back…

Sheesh! Those Spaniards are rough. I think I saw an episode of “The Sopranos” where Tony and Pauly Walnuts did roughly the same thing when a sporting goods store owner couldn’t pay his gambling debt…..

[For the record, the reason banks here can't do you the way banks in some other countries can is because mortgages here are debts secured by the property. That is, in exchange for putting your house up for colateral, the bank loans you money. You don't pay, they get the house. But NOT your grandmother's jewelry, for crying out loud.]

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The thoughts & opinions are mine. The quips that fall flat are someone else’s. Please feel free to shoot me an email with a question or a good joke.

And remember, real estate agents aren’t bad. We’re just drawn that way.

The most important element of buying a home – even more than deciding what style, size and school district – is determining how much you can afford. Unless you pay cash (my name is Casey, please call me immediately) you will need to find out how much of a mortgage you qualify for and are willing to pay.

Calculating this is not like figuring the trajectory needed for the Hubble Telescope to take that money shot of Jupiter, but it isn’t as easy as 2+2=4, either.

There are plenty of online mortgage calculators which are accurate. But they don’t necessarily give the complete picture. Most of these calculators do a simple equation based on a given set of variables:

“loan amount”   x   “interest rate factor”  = “mortgage payment (principal & interest ONLY)

There’s simply more to a payment than that. Also, these sites are not equipped to advise you whether you’ll qualify for a mortgage or not. (More on that in an upcoming post.) But for now let’s look at what else is included in mortgage payments.

First, in addition to the principal & interest (P&I) figure one gets using the formula above, most buyers will need to include taxes & insurance (T&I) with their monthly payment. These four components together are commonly referred to as “PITI“.

The T&I are called ‘escrow items’ and equal 1/12th of the annual tax and insurance bills. The lender holds this money in an escrow account. When the tax and insurance bills come due, they’re paid by the lender from the escrow account.

The ‘taxes’ portion refers to the property taxes due on that particular piece of real estate. Since each house will have a unique property tax bill, that cannot be calculated by the online sites. One needs to find out the annual property tax amount, divide by 12 and add that number to the P & I. (In Guilford County, property taxes can be found here. To understand how property taxes are determined in Guilford, read this post)

The ‘insurance’ component is homeowner’s insurance, a figure determined by your insurance agent. Again, take the annual insurance premium, divide by 12 and add to the P & I & T.

Voila! PITI.

But wait. There’s more.

Depending on the type of loan (conventional, FHA or VA) there may or not be mortgage insurance, known as PMI or MPI. This is not homeowner’s insurance but is mortgage insurance, paid as a premium to cover the lender in case of the loan not paid back.

These premiums are really hairy to calculate as they are based on how much down-payment is made, the amount financed and other variables. Here is when speaking with a good, knowledgable lender is absolutely a must. And, not for nothing, but a lender on the other end of a 800 number is almost certainly NOT going to know about the property tax and insurance situation for your particular locale. Call someone who knows your market.

To illustrate what I mean, here’s a recent communication from my favorite lender, explaining yet another change in FHA loans:

Huh?

Fear not. Getting all this figured out doesn’t have to fall on you alone. Or on me, thank goodness. Asking qualified professionals for help just makes good sense.

Now, where’s my Advil?

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The thoughts & opinions are mine. The quips that fall flat are someone else’s. Please feel free to shoot me an email with a question or a good joke.

And remember, real estate agents aren’t bad. We’re just drawn that way.

There are many clocks in our house. From the digital ones on the DVR box, wall oven, under-cabinet radio, alarm clocks for for both Mr. Durango and me to the ones at the bottom of the three computers to the watch our oldest son left here after visiting this weekend – it started beeping at 6:30 this morning – to the grandfather clock in the front hall to the mantel top clock in the den to the cuckoo hanging in our kitchen (the cuckoo CLOCK is hanging, wiseguy) we are covered, clock-wise.

Even so, time can still manage to slip up on us. And it is slipping up on all the 1st time home buyers who haven’t stepped up to take advantage of the $8,000 tax credit. As it is currently designed, the last day to close on a house and receive the credit is November 30th.

December 1st will be a day late and $8,000 short.

Let’s be clear. There is still time to find a home and go through the process and close by the deadline. But if you are hoping to take advantage of the credit, you might want to get going before the new seasons of “Lost” gets started as I understand that show can be quite the time suck.

There is a chance the deadline will be extended. And there’s a chance my youngest will become obsessive about his room being tidy as well. We can continue to have faith, but let’s not bank on either of things happening in a timely manner.

What should be your first step if you haven’t already started towards buying in time for the credit? Pretty much the same as always. Time is just really of the essence in this case.

So, my personal recommendation is to get thee to a good lender immediately. The loan process is what can take the longest in a real estate sales transaction and it can be started before you find the house which can save time. A lender can actually get your loan approved, contingent on whatever house you find appraising at the contract price, before you step foot into the first property on your search list. And the benefit is that the lender will have the information needed to finalize the loan once the house is found and you’ll know your perimeters, money-wise.

Once you’ve established the loan, get with a good agent and start looking at houses. Don’t mess around with looking with several agents. That’s not efficient, not effective and wastes time. You have to get to know each one, answer the same qualifying questions over and over and ultimately that doesn’t serve your purposes.

Find an agent you like and go for it.

Once you find the house, the negotiations will take as long as they take. Perhaps you and the seller will come to a meeting of the minds in a day. Maybe a week. That’s up to the parties. Try not to get bogged down in whether the seller will leave the 15 year old swing set or if the living room is intolerably orange. And if the seller gets bogged down in their own issues, consider moving on to another property.

It’s unpredictable but as a rule, when a buyer wants to buy a house that a seller wants to sell, things get worked out.

So, the countdown has started to November 30th. Here’s your “to do” list if you want to get that $8,000 tax credit:

• Communicate with a good lender and start the approval process
• Establish a relationship with a Realtor with whom you’re comfortable and start looking at homes that meet your needs and price range
• Eliminate those homes from your mind that won’t work. Try to compare no more than two houses at a time and eliminate all the rest. Otherwise, they start to run together and you can’t remember which one had the half bath off the kitchen that skeeved you out and which one had the killer deck.
• Stay on top of whatever your lender has told you she needs to get things completed
• Be prepared to get a bit freaked out. Nearly all 1st time buyer do. You’ll be glad you went through it all once your in your own place.

This is a rare, as in never before, opportunity to not only become a home owner but to receive massive coinage for the privilege of doing so.

It all adds up to this being the time to make that leap and reap the rewards, happiness-wise.

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The thoughts & opinions are mine. The quips that fall flat are someone else’s. Please feel free to shoot me an email with a question or a good joke.

And remember, real estate agents aren’t bad. We’re just drawn that way.

After all the looking at houses, measuring furniture, negotiating repairs and near constant nausea, the real estate buying process always ends up with a document called the HUD-1 Settlement Statement. HUD stands for Department of Housing & Urban Development.  (Here’s a PDF) It is used for virtually all residential real estate closings and details the financial part of the transaction for both buyer and seller.

It is nothing to be feared. Although there are columns and rows and decimal points and subtotals, even those with math phobias can embrace that fact that this is where everything is made clear and specific.

By the time you are at the closing table you should know what your “bottom line” is. And it really is there, at the bottom of page 1. The buyer will have already been advised how much money to bring to closing and the seller will know how much they (hopefully) will net out from the proceedings. [note: Here in Greensboro, closing is customarily handled by an attorney. Other parts of the country may have 'escrow agents' or other 3rd parties.]

Where do the numbers come from?

They start with the Offer to Purchase and Contract which should spell out  financial details of the agreement between the parties:

• sales price
• earnest money paid
• if the seller is paying for any of the buyer’s closing costs and how much
• if a home warranty is being purchased and for how much, etc.,

Added to this is any information not specifically addressed in the contract:

• Was there a home inspection?
• termite inspection?
• repairs made?
• If so, for how much, payable to whom and was it paid outside of closing (“POC”)
• hazard insurance premium
• sales commission

This information is generally provided by the Realtors representing the parties.

The real nitty-gritty information is provided by the lender. The closing attorney will be provided a ‘closing package’ or ‘closing instructions’ by the mortgage lender. The package will instruct the attorney how much money is to be collected and disbursed on the buyer’s side. Here is where the attorney will note how many months of taxes to collect up front and for the escrow account, what expenses have been incurred for the mortgage itself:

• appraisal
• origination fee
• discount points
• flood certification fee
• application fee, etc.,

The closing attorney will also do a deed and tax search to verify which party owes how much for real estate property taxes. The seller is responsible for taxes up to the day of closing and the buyer is responsible for the day of closing through the end of the year. Same thing for homeowners association dues.

After all this information is collected by the closing attorney, all the debits and credits are listed on the 2 pages of the HUD-1. There is a columns for the buyer (left hand side) and a column for the seller (right side).

There should be nothing left off the HUD-1 and nothing added that the lender hasn’t approved. Nothing ‘under the table’. That is a serious no-no.

It is on the HUD-1 where you’ll see a credit in the buyer’s column for the earnest money you paid when you made the offer. (The buyer’s agent will generally bring a check, made out to the attorney, written from the agency’s trust account). Also noted will be a credit for the mortgage itself. Again, funds are wired to the attorney from the bank.

Adding up all the various debits and credits for both sides leaves two bottom lines. One is the amount the buyer needs to bring to closing (certified check payable to the attorney), the other the amount due the seller.

All the funds from the earnest money to the mortgage to the buyer’s day-of-closing money go into the attorney’s trust account. It is from that account the attorney cuts all appropriate pay-outs: seller’s net, tax bill, homeowners insurance premium, termite inspector, etc., At the end of the day, the attorney’s trust account will balance out to $0. Every penny of money that comes in for that transaction goes out.

Both buyer and seller and the attorney will sign the HUD-1. It is the financial record of the deal. You’ll be given a copy.

There are MANY itemized expenses in a real estate transaction and I’ve noted just a few. The thing to remember is that there will be nothing on the statement that doesn’t have an explanation.

If things aren’t clear to you, ask the attorney. Line 1107 will show their fee, so get your money’s worth!

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The thoughts & opinions are mine. The quips that fall flat are someone else’s. Please feel free to shoot me an email with a question or a good joke.

And remember, real estate agents aren’t bad. We’re just drawn that way.

In the maze of non-intuitive sounding phrases associated with a home purchase – ‘origination fee‘, ‘FICO score‘, ‘amortization schedule’ – one that invariably concerns buyers is ‘closing costs’.

More than concerning them, it sometimes prevents them from moving forward with dreams of buying their own place.

Particularly in the case of first time buyers, the idea of coming up with money for just the down payment seems daunting, forget about money for an attorney, lender fees, inspections and flowers for their agent.

No, wait. That last one is purely optional.

The truth is, closing costs can vary from region to region and will be impacted by the specific circumstances of the purchase. So trying to plan for them when starting the home-buying process can be hard.

A little information might help:

“Closing Costs” are precisely what the name says. They are the charges required to get the house ‘closed’, or finalized with the deed recorded at the courthouse. Both buyer and seller incur costs but the lion’s share are usually in the buyer’s column. If one is paying cash, the closing costs for the buyer will be minimal (attorney’s fee, appraisal if so ordered, deed recording, inspections if ordered, buyer’s share of property taxes for the year).

When the buyer gets a mortgage for the purchase, closing costs go up appreciably. This is because the lender will require certain things in exchange for loaning the money. These items will include charges for things such as loan origination fee, credit report, commitment fee, flood certification fee, mortgage insurance, title insurance, collection of tax and insurance money in advance in order to set up an escrow account, etc.,)

So, getting to the point, how much are closing costs? As a very broad rule of thumb, one can plan on closing costs equaling about 3% of the loaned amount. Here is a partial list of some customary charges in the Greensboro area.

If you’re quickly calculating the numbers and realizing that the minimum amount of down payment one can generally get now – 3.5% with an FHA loan – and adding to that the above mentioned 3%, you may be thinking there’s no way and consider clicking away from this site to go over to see what Perez Hilton has to say about Susan Boyle.

But don’t do it. And not just because gossip is not nice.

When making an offer on a house, a buyer can request the seller to pay for some or all of the buyer’s closing costs. In doing so, the buyer may need to adjust the purchase price amount to make up for the seller paying those costs. But an increase of $3,000 or $4,000 dollars in purchase price will raise one’s monthly mortgage payment a small amount compared to having to come up with those $3K-$4K up front. And if one buys before December 1st of this year, there is the ability to use the $8,000 first time buyer tax credit towards closing costs.

The moral of all this is “Don’t let fear of closing costs stop you from buying a house”.

Talk to a reputable lender and ask about all this. A good lender will provide you with a “Good Faith Estimate” of costs and a really good lender will be able to nail those numbers within $10.

There’s no harm, or cost, in asking the questions about buying a home. Deal with knowledgeable people. Don’t assume only OTHER people can buy a house. Give yourself a chance.

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If you have questions, comments or a good joke to share shoot me an email.  I’m a full time Realtor®, I love what I do and would be thrilled to hear from you.

If you are reading this by way of doing research before putting your house on the market in Greensboro, take this one, key idea away with you:

Don’t do it.

Just don’t list a property for sale right now unless you really need to. It will only hurt your feelings. And you risk leaving money on the table if you do get an offer. That’s what happens in a buyer’s market. And there hasn’t been a buyer’s market like this since James Stewart played George Bailey going toe to toe with Mr. Potter. And while life may still be wonderful, being a seller in this market is not.

On the other hand, if you are a buyer – and don’t have a house to sell before you can buy – you should be doing a happy dance right about now. Seriously. Low interest rates, tons of inventory and, if you’re a 1st time buyer, the government will throw $8,000 at you to get you off the fence.

So get off the danged fence already!

The total number of houses on the market in Greensboro are down from last week. But that’s due to the fact that pending properties tend to close at the end of a month. So, while lower inventory is good, in relation to the inventory after end of month closings in January, we’re up.

Ugh. We’re just going to have to get through the houses on the market. Only then will there be what can really be considered a turn around.

Inventory is still quite a bit lower than in was in the 4th quarter of 2008. But we need to see month over month numbers improving.

Here are the numbers for properties on the market in Greensboro.

As always, whether the news is good or bad, you’ll see it here.

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If you have questions, comments or a good joke to share shoot me an email.  I’m a full time Realtor®, I love what I do and would be thrilled to hear from you.

* All data from Triad Multiple Listing Service (MLS). “Single-family” does not include Duplexes or manufactured homes.

[UPDATE: The tax credit has been extended to April 30, 2010 and expanded to include existing homeowners who will receive a $6500 credit when they meet certain criteria]

I’ve resisted writing about this very important tax credit because it has changed several times since introduced a few weeks ago as part of the economic stimulus package. Now that President Obama has signed the package into law, let’s take a look. For those who want a quick read, here’s a PDF of the new tax credit compared to the one from last year.

Nuts & Bolts:

• 1st time home buyers – or those who have not owned a home in the past 3 years – are eligible
• it’s good on single-family, townhouses and condos
• it does NOT need to be paid back (this differs from the previous credit)
• there are income limits
• purchases made between 1/1/09 and 12/01/09 are eligible***[SEE COMMENTS]

Now, some VERY basic explanations. For complex answers, ask a deeper thinker or, better yet, a tax expert.

A tax credit is different than a tax deduction. A tax credit is a dollar for dollar reduction in the amount of tax burden (what you owe in taxes). A tax deduction reduces your amount of taxable income on which your tax burden is calculated.

So this tax credit means that if at the end of the year your tax burden is, say, $8,000, and you receive the $8,000 tax credit  because you wisely purchased your 1st home, you will owe ZERO dollars in federal tax.

If your tax burden is $5,000 and you get the $8,000 tax credit, you would receive the difference. $8,000 credit – $5,000 owed = $3,000 in your pocket.”

Some are bellyaching that this is not a a true stimulus for home buyers.

I guess those folks don’t look at $8,000 as real money. Mazel Tov to them.

There are plenty of 1st time buyers who will be more than thrilled to get $8,000 credited to them come tax filing season next year. And that’s in addition to the benefits of the mortgage interest payment tax deduction on those same returns.

Consider this as well – When those tax refund checks start going out in the spring, there will be a whole new generation of homeowners, with houses to furnish, decorate and all that comes with owning your own place.

Sounds stimulating to me.

When you look at this tax credit, the low interest rates, the motivated sellers and high inventory it’s hard to imagine a better time to buy.

As I’ve repeated many, many times, most people are having to pay to live somewhere. And those renting are indeed paying for a mortgage. Just not theirs. And they’re not getting the benefits of it.

Time they started reaping those rewards themselves.

[BTW, the president is announcing a separate plan of those who currently own homes, The Help for Homeowners Plan. I'll write about then when there's complete information available. The White House has a link to it here.]

Excellent question. So call a lender and ask. And if they give you an answer without asking you any questions, say thank you, hang up and call someone else.

Why? Because in today’s world there is no such thing as “today’s interest rate”.

There’s barely even “this morning’s interest rate” or “this quarter hour’s interest rate”.

Additionally, there isn’t one interest rate at any given time. There are many variables that determine which one of many rates you can get.

The reason?

Risk management. (Funny how the lenders have decided to actually manage risk instead of create it. But that’s a topic for another post…)

Unlike a couple of years ago when one merely needed to be an inhabitant of the Earth and the nerve to apply for a loan to get a mortgage, banks have returned to, shall we say, more circumspect guidelines.

So, your interest rate will be determined by*:

• FICO score
• how much you put down
• loan amount
• type of loan (conventional, FHA, VA)

And in addition to all these factors going in to determine the interest rate, they will also determine how many points, if any, you’ll need to pay to get that rate. [For a quick explanation of points, read this.]

For example, if you have a FICO score of 720, are putting down 5% and are borrowing $150K with a conventional loan, you might be quoted a rate of 5.625% with 1 point.

Same scenario except you have a FICO of 650 and your rate could be 5.875% with 2.5 points.

Same scenario except your getting an FHA loan and your rate could be 5.5% with 1 point.

Any of these numbers may work for your situation and a good lender can help you sort out whether it makes sense to pay the points, put down more, change to an FHA loan, or wait and work on your FICO score.

The bottom line is this: Don’t think that whatever rate you read or hear about at any given moment in ads will be relevent to your situation. And a lender who starts asking you for more details is not being a jerk but rather is doing the right thing. One who quotes you numbers without determining some key factors is not serving you well.

Ask your agent, your parents, your cube mate if they have a good lender to recommend. There’s a lot of mortgage money out there to be loaned. Buyers just need to meet a few more requirements.

And being an inhabitant of Earth is still a plus.

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If you have questions, comments or a good joke to share shoot me an email.  I’m a full time Realtor®, I love what I do and would be thrilled to hear from you.

* Mortgage lending practices can vary from region to region, lender to lender, and can be affected by market conditions. Lending criteria can change, and have. Often. The information I provide is based on my experience in my area. So, again, ASK QUESTIONS.

[This is a snippet of information about mortgages and lending. I've written previously about some of these details but this weekly installment will be on one aspect of the nuts and bolts  - not to be confused with the "nuts and dolts" whose shaky lending decisions helped get us into this fine mess -  of the borrowing process. If you have a particular topic or question, send it along]*

What is an “Origination Fee”?

In the simplest terms, this is money paid to get a lower interest rate. Some regions customarily quote this fee, some don’t.

An origination fee is essentially a loan discount – or ‘buy down’ – point and equals 1% of the amount borrowed (not of the purchase of the house). You can also pay a fraction of a point, but 1% is typical.

You don’t have to pay the fee, but you will probably pay a higher interest rate if you don’t. You’ll want to figure the up front cost of the point against the increased monthly payment of a higher interest rate.

If  you’re going to be in your house more than about three years, it probably makes sense to pay the point.

If cash up front is an issue for you, going with the higher interest rate may make more sense.

If you can get the seller to pay your closing costs (not an uncommon occurrence) you can get the best of both worlds by agreeing to the point and getting the lower rate.

How are you to know what your closing costs and monthly payments will be so that you can make an informed decision? Ask for a “Good Faith Estimate“. More about that and other mortgage terms in future posts.

For now, take away from that:

• an origination fee is charged to get to “buy down” the interest rate
• a customary charge is 1% of the borrowed amount, but can vary
• whether ’tis wiser to pay the fee or not depends on your current needs and future plans.

And don’t feel like a goof if you don’t know all this already. Why on earth should you? Ask your lender. Ask your real estate agent. Ask you cousin who just went through all this. Never be afraid to ask.

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If you have questions, comments or a good joke to share shoot me an email.  I’m a full time Realtor®, I love what I do and would be thrilled to hear from you.

* Mortgage lending practices can vary from region to region, lender to lender, and can be affected by market conditions. Lending criteria can change, and have. Often. The information I provide is based on my experience in my area. So, again, ASK QUESTIONS.